Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 49 total · 5/month
Shared By: Howard on Feb 20, 2018
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

Fun for the whole family... if parents are down with kids doing a traverse that is unprotected. A blocky start to a dike feature continues through a positive leftward traverse without pro. Mostly good rock, but beware at least one loose hold. The traverse ends with an arete that becomes more exposed up high just before the finish.
Almost merits the name Black Tide.

Location

Descend the easy gully to the left.

Protection

A pink tricam lowered an unsure follower just fine before they started the traverse. A few so-so chickenhead tie-offs on the arete plus small to medium nuts did the job. Thin to medium nuts plus medium cams for the anchor.

Photos

Howard
Costa Mesa, CA
  5.4
Howard   Costa Mesa, CA
  5.4
Miramontes described it as a plated climb. It's more of a traverse that transitions into an arete with chicken heads and blocks. Positive climbing, but seemingly gets very little traffic and might benefit from slightly more cleaning. Some of the pro isn't for beginners, especially the anchor which is fiddly and offers sparse pieces. Going off the rope helps to connect far away pieces. Either way, pretty fun and a nice find. I thought it wasn't this 5.4 but it appeared easy, was an obvious line, and was eye catching enough. In fact, it's plainly visible from the parking! Feb 20, 2018