Type: Trad, 700 ft, 5 pitches, Grade III
FA: 2001 Les Brown and Pete Turnbull
Page Views: 48 total · 5/month
Shared By: Eric Bluemn on Feb 19, 2018
Admins: Eric Bluemn

You & This Route

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The black groove climbs the obvious chimney feature up the south side of the lower Tifghalt crag. The primary line is up the center of the chimney, although it appears that other routes could be climbed to the left and right. We climbed the route by scrambling up easy terrain in the chimney to the start of the technical terrain. From there, we climbed 2 long pitches to the main ledge system. Off the main ledge, we followed a corner up and left to the base of the crux crack, a slabby left-facing offwidth corner and then followed easier terrain to the top of the formation.


To get to Tifghalt lower crag, park in the town of Tifghalt and from the road hike up terraces towards the base of the crag (the book recommends finding a trail in town but we found it more direct to start from the road at a hairpin just east of town). There are several game trails leading towards the base of the crag.

Descend the route by down climbing ledgy terrain off the back of the formation, and return to your packs by traversing around the east of the formation back to the base. If you're caught in bad weather *ahem* rapping with double 60m ropes off blocks can get you from the top of the formation to terra firma.


Anti atlas double rack to #3, one #4, some may find #5 camalot useful for the crux crack. RPs can be placed in the upper chimney. Many long runners, double ropes helpful to reduce drag.