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Routes in Mystery Tower

A.A.D. S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Devil's Advocate T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Mystery Route S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Son Of A Preacher Man S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
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Type: Sport, 110 ft
FA: John Scott
Page Views: 59 total · 14/month
Shared By: Lurker on Feb 18, 2018
Admins: Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description [Suggest Change]

First route at the Caves and still one of the best.

Follow a plumb line up the tallest section of the Mystery Tower. There's a load of 5.11-ish climbing with a distinct crux about halfway up, involving some sharpish but positive crimps and a 2-finger pocket.

Protection [Suggest Change]

14 bolts, anchors.

Location [Suggest Change]

Farthest right route on the wall, just right of the obvious left-leaning ramp system.

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Evan Wisheropp
  5.12b
Evan Wisheropp  
  5.12b
I skipped the chalked up pocket halfway up and moved right, which is actually pretty mellow. Be aware, the entire first 3/4 is extremely sharp, likely the sharpest route at the Caves, so come with fresh skin. I am so tempted to give it three stars just for the sharpness, but the upper section is just so cool. I got on this one again after sending Son of A Preacher Man (which I think is solid 12a), but the cruxes on Mystery Route are all leagues harder in my opinion. There are three mini-cruxes which come after clipping each of the last three bolts. I used several long draws and slings to keep the rope running clean on the midsection. May 7, 2018

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