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Stinger - West Face
5.9 A2+ R,
Trad, Aid, 160 ft (48 m), 2 pitches, Grade II,
Avg: 3 from 1
vote
FA: unknown
Utah
> Southeast Utah
> River Rd
> Richardson Amphitheater
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
Description
If anyone knows the FA of this let me know. Desert Rock claims unknown, but the east face says Brad Bond, Alden Strong, April 1998 (2nd Ascent of Stinger)
P1: The route begins in some rotten mudrock giving it the A2+ grade. 40' of Lost arrows, peckers, stoppers, small cams lead to a small roof where you need a huge topstep to plug in the first good piece. The route becomes C1 from here, with a range of hand size up through a wide 5's and 6's roof (This would probably go free at hard 5.11+?). Pass an intermediate anchor and continue up the bombay chimney (5.9). VG and a 6 was nice to have here. Save a 5 or 6 for the last 10 feet of the pitch.
P2: Scramble up choss directly above the anchor (5.7R) getting in mental pro until reaching the sub-summit. C1 leads to a final mantle on jugs and loose blocks.
Location
Near the right side of the west face. It is the only feasible line. 1 short rap from the summit and another rap from the top of p1 anchor with a 70m rope. with a 60, you could do 3 raps if you set up the intermediate anchor.
Protection
Doubles .1 to 5, 1x 6, VG, small stoppers a few peckers and long lost arrows. webbing. next person should bring a register.