Type: Trad, Aid, 160 ft, 2 pitches, Grade II
FA: unknown
Page Views: 126 total · 13/month
Shared By: Mickey Guziak on Feb 18, 2018
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

If anyone knows the FA of this let me know. Desert Rock claims unknown, but the east face says Brad Bond, Alden Strong, April 1998 (2nd Ascent of Stinger)

P1: The route begins in some rotten mudrock giving it the A2+ grade. 40' of Lost arrows, peckers, stoppers, small cams lead to a small roof where you need a huge topstep to plug in the first good piece. The route becomes C1 from here, with a range of hand size up through a wide 5's and 6's roof (This would probably go free at hard 5.11+?). Pass an intermediate anchor and continue up the bombay chimney (5.9). VG and a 6 was nice to have here. Save a 5 or 6 for the last 10 feet of the pitch.

P2: Scramble up choss directly above the anchor (5.7R) getting in mental pro until reaching the sub-summit. C1 leads to a final mantle on jugs and loose blocks.

Location

Near the right side of the west face. It is the only feasible line. 1 short rap from the summit and another rap from the top of p1 anchor with a 70m rope. with a 60, you could do 3 raps if you set up the intermediate anchor.

Protection

Doubles .1 to 5, 1x 6, VG, small stoppers a few peckers and long lost arrows. webbing. next person should bring a register.

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