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Routes in Purgatory

Are You Dead or Are You Sleeping V3+ 6A+
Back to the Gym V4 6B
Fire Crotch S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Glenn's Dance Floor V7 7A+
Learning to Fly V7-8 7B
Madness V5 6C
New Map to Hell V3 6A
Nose Bleed V8-9 7B+
Nose, The V7 7A+
Nostril, The V8 7B
Orangutang Swang V4 6B
Pipekabob V2 5+
Purgatory Arete V3 6A
Texas Hold 'Em V10 7C+
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Type: Boulder
FA: unknown
Page Views: 66 total · 7/month
Shared By: g hopper on Feb 18, 2018
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Description

Start standing using a low left side pull and a sloper on your right. Use small intermediates or make a reach to a big in-cut above your head. From here move up off sandy feet and right to a sandy in-cut sloper. A small slot up and left sets you up for the top.

Location

On the west side of the Learning to Fly boulder. There is Pipe sticking up from the ground about 8 feet directly in front of the start.

Protection

Pads and spotter

Photos

g hopper
  V2
g hopper  
  V2
Let me know if you know of the FA and name. I'm sure someone has done this, there was chalk on the start. Feb 18, 2018
Kevin Diaz
Tulsa, OK
 
Kevin Diaz   Tulsa, OK
 
I know people have tried this for sure. Probably someone has done it. I've climbed it to the top but then bailed on the mantle top out cause that thing is sloping and a little scary.

Did you really think it was a V2? Not that it matters, but I thought it was a bit harder. Feb 19, 2018
g hopper
  V2
g hopper  
  V2
It took me 5 or 6 tries to finally commit to the scary, sloping top out. There's a big flake (you can see it in the pciture, but not while climbing) just over the top that you can get both hands on that I was sure happy to have. I'm not sure how long the flake will last, its a bit soft like a lot of the rock at Zen Pen and might throw someone in a desperate situation. As for the grade, i'm not sure, I think V3 would be fair. Feb 19, 2018

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