Pete's Dream
5.4 YDS 4a French 12 Ewbanks IV UIAA 10 ZA VD 3c British WI2 Mod. Snow PG13
Avg: 1.5 from 2 votes
Type: | Trad, Ice, Snow, Alpine, 2000 ft (606 m), Grade III |
FA: | unknown |
Page Views: | 1,299 total · 18/month |
Shared By: | Karl Henize on Feb 16, 2018 |
Admins: | Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Description
This is the largest drainage to climbers right of Carson Peak, as seen from the road. Climb up through the drainage, until reaching the summit ridge, and then continue on to the summit.
This is probably better known as an extreme ski descent than as an alpine climb.
The bottom third of the route is known as "Rob's Ravine" or "Carson Peak Gully". It is possible to climb Rob's Ravine and then descend 3rd class terrain, without continuing on to the summit. Details for this section can be found here.
In lean conditions, there should be exposed water ice at the base of the route, with sections of moderate snow and steeper rock bands exposed above. In high snow years, the gully system could be completely filled with snow.
We climbed the the route in lean, early-winter conditions and found it occasionally difficult to find good rock protection. We roped up for one pitch and only placed one piece of rock pro, on lead.
This is probably better known as an extreme ski descent than as an alpine climb.
The bottom third of the route is known as "Rob's Ravine" or "Carson Peak Gully". It is possible to climb Rob's Ravine and then descend 3rd class terrain, without continuing on to the summit. Details for this section can be found here.
In lean conditions, there should be exposed water ice at the base of the route, with sections of moderate snow and steeper rock bands exposed above. In high snow years, the gully system could be completely filled with snow.
We climbed the the route in lean, early-winter conditions and found it occasionally difficult to find good rock protection. We roped up for one pitch and only placed one piece of rock pro, on lead.
Location
From the highway, look for the largest drainage on the climbers' right hand side of Carson Peak. Starting from The Double Eagle Resort, easy bushwhacking takes you to the base of the drainage (Rob's Ravine).
There are numerous descent options from the summit of Carson Peak. Pete's Dream and and Carson Bowl are popular steep ski descents. Lower angle and less direct descent options include descents of the "backside" to Spooky Meadow or Fern Lake.
There are numerous descent options from the summit of Carson Peak. Pete's Dream and and Carson Bowl are popular steep ski descents. Lower angle and less direct descent options include descents of the "backside" to Spooky Meadow or Fern Lake.
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