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Routes in Carson Peak Alpine

Pete's Dream T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c WI2 Mod. Snow PG13
Y-Couloir T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Mod. Snow PG13
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Type: Trad, Ice, Snow, Alpine, 2000 ft, Grade III
FA: unknown
Page Views: 83 total · 11/month
Shared By: Karl Henize on Feb 16, 2018
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This is the largest drainage to climbers right of Carson Peak, as seen from the road. Climb up through the drainage, until reaching the summit ridge, and then continue on to the summit.

This is probably better known as an extreme ski descent than as an alpine climb.

The bottom third of the route is known as "Rob's Ravine" or "Carson Peak Gully". It is possible to climb Rob's Ravine and then descend 3rd class terrain, without continuing on to the summit. Details for this section can be found here.

In lean conditions, there should be exposed water ice at the base of the route, with sections of moderate snow and steeper rock bands exposed above. In high snow years, the gully system could be completely filled with snow.

We climbed the the route in lean, early-winter conditions and found it occasionally difficult to find good rock protection. We roped up for one pitch and only placed one piece of rock pro, on lead.

Location

From the highway, look for the largest drainage on the climbers' right hand side of Carson Peak. Starting from The Double Eagle Resort, easy bushwhacking takes you to the base of the drainage (Rob's Ravine).

There are numerous descent options from the summit of Carson Peak. Pete's Dream and and Carson Bowl are popular steep ski descents. Lower angle and less direct descent options include descents of the "backside" to Spooky Meadow or Fern Lake.

Protection

Ice screws, cams, nuts, and pitons in lean conditions. Pickets may be useful if steeper sections filled in with snow.

Only one piece of rock pro was placed, when the Author climbed the route.

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