Type: Trad, 450 ft (136 m), 3 pitches
FA: Paul & Linda Seibert, summer 1980
Page Views: 671 total · 8/month
Shared By: Drew Chojnowski on Feb 13, 2018 · Updates
Admins: Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown

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Description Suggest change

Disco Duck is a super fun slab climb, and the easiest protectable route up the west face of False Tooth. The first pitch is almost exactly 60m with little room for error, so a 70m rope is recommended.

P1 (60m, 5.6 PG13): climb directly up the middle of the face toward a dead tree on a "ledge" (maybe just a big disconnected block). Consider making an anchor there given the obvious runout above, but instead take a step up and then traverse right, walking along a thin ledge, to find more pro toward the right side of the wall. Continue up placing gear wherever possible. Eventually surmount a small easy roof, and climb ~20 minimally-protected feet after which a ledge is reached with several suitable anchor options.

P2 (150ft, 5.7+ PG13): make delicate moves up marginally-protectable slab, veering left around the giant roof above. Follow the corner left of the roof and eventually endure some bushwack-climbing to arrive in a comfy alcove with numerous anchor opportunities.

P3 (100ft, 5.7+): climb up the crack above and then traverse right along the top of a flake out onto the "ridge" of sorts. Climb easy rock to the small forest above and belay from a tree.

To get down, scramble/bushwack up and left until it's feasible to walk off into the canyon and return to the base of the west face, where packs can be left. With two ropes or a 70m, you could skip the bushwack and rap from one of many good or acceptable trees.

Protection Suggest change

Double rack in Camalot #0.3-3, a #4, and variety of smaller than 0.3" cams. A set of the smallest 3 ball nuts can help sew it up. Despite that, there are some runout sections.

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