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The Nostril

V8, Boulder,  Avg: 3 from 2 votes
FA: Josh Haynes
Oklahoma > Zen Pen > Purgatory

Description

Sit Start on the shelf and move up into the great sloping nose-like feature. Using a crimp and a shallow vertical crack navigate the technical body movement to carefully latch the sloping jug. Just left of Orangutang Swang.

Protection

1-2 Pads

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Struggling to move through the tricky crux.
[Hide Photo] Struggling to move through the tricky crux.

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Reese Stanley
  V8-9
[Hide Comment] One of my favorite lines anywhere, and one of the best at Zen Pen. Relatively unimpressive at first glance but, a truly wonderful set of moves.

Feels hard for the grade, I'd maybe give it V9 due to the subtle technical nature of the climb as well as the crux sequence which is surprisingly powerful and difficult. Even after the hard techy gaston, moving inwards and upwards is surprisingly physical, technical and difficult. Good temps are incredibly helpful, as the nose is largely friction dependent.

Beta: youtube.com/watch?v=QZRRbMi… Dec 7, 2018