Type: Boulder
FA: Josh Haynes
Page Views: 96 total · 9/month
Shared By: Kevin Diaz on Feb 13, 2018
Admins: Drew Nevius

You & This Route


2 Opinions

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Description

Sit Start on the shelf and move up into the great sloping nose-like feature. Using a crimp and a shallow vertical crack navigate the technical body movement to carefully latch the sloping jug. Just left of Orangutang Swang.

Protection

1-2 Pads

Photos

Reese Stanley
  V8-9
Reese Stanley  
  V8-9
One of my favorite lines anywhere, and one of the best at Zen Pen. Relatively unimpressive at first glance but, a truly wonderful set of moves.

Feels hard for the grade, I'd maybe give it V9 due to the subtle technical nature of the climb as well as the crux sequence which is surprisingly powerful and difficult. Even after the hard techy gaston, moving inwards and upwards is surprisingly physical, technical and difficult. Good temps are incredibly helpful, as the nose is largely friction dependent.

Beta: youtube.com/watch?v=QZRRbMi… Dec 7, 2018