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Washington
> Northwest Region
> San Juan, Fidal…
> Mt Erie
> Summit Area
> (b) Lookout Wall
Bomb Blast Lightning Waltz
5.11c/d YDS 7a French 24 Ewbanks VIII UIAA 25 ZA E4 6a British
Avg: 2.8 from 13
votes
Routes in (b) Lookout Wall
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Beane's Blast S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Beginning, The T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Bomb Blast Lightning Waltz S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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Cat With No Tail S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Gladiator S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Lightning Waltz S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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PTSD S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Vertigo T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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| Type: | Sport, 75 ft (23 m) |
| FA: | Ken Beane, Stu Ford (~80s) |
| Page Views: | 1,310 total · 25/month |
| Shared By: | Matthew Tangeman on Feb 12, 2018 · Updates |
| Admins: | Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Z Winters |
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Access Issue: COVID 19, Social Distancing and Parking Access
Details
The City of Anacortes continues to work to maintain local access to its parks and forest lands. We are asking our user groups to practice all pandemic social distancing protocol. Please observe our trailhead parking limitations, which includes a 10 vehicle limit at the 247 Trailhead at the base of Mt. Erie. The summit road is currently closed to vehicles. Thank you for your patience and understanding. May, 2020
Description
Bomb Blast Lightning Waltz climbs the plumb line of the crag through nice edges and bouldery sequences.
Climb mostly 5.10 terrain over three bulges, occasionally feeling a little contrived, but with good holds and fun moves. A bit of thin slab leaves you perched below the crux, where a nice mix of power and finesse will see you through.
Ken Beane established the line in the 1980s on lead, climbing the route as directly as possible. Ken and his partner Stu Ford put it up on a very cold day. He intentionally climbed both roofs, with very marginal pro at best (X rated) which the guide books have the route info wrong. He then drilled the first bolt by hand on a stance. The second bolt he drilled by hand, only after reaching the lunch box hold, and then hanging off hooks. Then Stu put him back on belay and he finished the route.
The route was completely retrofitted with new lead bolts by Brooks Middleton and Michael Abrams in 2017 and remains the main attraction of the crag.
Climb mostly 5.10 terrain over three bulges, occasionally feeling a little contrived, but with good holds and fun moves. A bit of thin slab leaves you perched below the crux, where a nice mix of power and finesse will see you through.
Ken Beane established the line in the 1980s on lead, climbing the route as directly as possible. Ken and his partner Stu Ford put it up on a very cold day. He intentionally climbed both roofs, with very marginal pro at best (X rated) which the guide books have the route info wrong. He then drilled the first bolt by hand on a stance. The second bolt he drilled by hand, only after reaching the lunch box hold, and then hanging off hooks. Then Stu put him back on belay and he finished the route.
The route was completely retrofitted with new lead bolts by Brooks Middleton and Michael Abrams in 2017 and remains the main attraction of the crag.
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