Type: Sport, 75 ft (23 m)
FA: Ken Beane, Stu Ford (~80s)
Page Views: 1,310 total · 25/month
Shared By: Matthew Tangeman on Feb 12, 2018 · Updates
Admins: Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Z Winters

You & This Route


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Access Issue: COVID 19, Social Distancing and Parking Access Details

Description

Bomb Blast Lightning Waltz climbs the plumb line of the crag through nice edges and bouldery sequences.

Climb mostly 5.10 terrain over three bulges, occasionally feeling a little contrived, but with good holds and fun moves. A bit of thin slab leaves you perched below the crux, where a nice mix of power and finesse will see you through.

Ken Beane established the line in the 1980s on lead, climbing the route as directly as possible. Ken and his partner Stu Ford put it up on a very cold day. He intentionally climbed both roofs, with very marginal pro at best (X rated) which the guide books have the route info wrong. He then drilled the first bolt by hand on a stance. The second bolt he drilled by hand, only after reaching the lunch box hold, and then hanging off hooks. Then Stu put him back on belay and he finished the route.

The route was completely retrofitted with new lead bolts by Brooks Middleton and Michael Abrams in 2017 and remains the main attraction of the crag.  

Location

Middle line on the wall

Protection

10 bolts.

Photos