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Routes in Flying Buttress

A-M aidline T A2-3
All Systems Go 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C3
All Systems Go (free) T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Anvil Spire North Face T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Arch Enemy T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Dune S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Epitaph T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Eraserhead Spire T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
It's a Breeze T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Queen's Bishop T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Technicolor Corner T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
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Type: Trad, 220 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Laura Sabourin
Page Views: 749 total · 81/month
Shared By: t.schwartz on Feb 11, 2018
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

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Description

Climb the first pitch and a half of Epitaph, climbing mostly big hands in a corner. Look for a horizontal crack system (not visible from the ground) to traverse left to a three bolt anchor and a nice ledge. Minimal gear and lots of runners keeps the drag down. 5.9 140ft

The second pitch has incredible movement with nauseating exposure and takes you through the sizes. Start up easy terrain in a pseudo corner with fingers. Make a crack switch on tight tips that turn to steep ring locks. The ring lock section is probably the hardest sequence on the pitch. Move through some 5.12 terrain to a chimney pod no hands rest. Pull into an undercling, pass a pod and climb relentless fingers in the awesome overhanging corner to another rest. Climb lower angle fat fingers in a flare feature to the anchors below the roof. Intense climbing, good rock with great gear the whole way. 5.13 80 ft

Protection

3x-.3
3x-.4
3-4x-.5
3x-.75
2x-#1
1x-#2
3x-#3
1x-#4
Bolted Anchors
70 meter rope

Photos

MarcYY
Flagstaff, AZ
MarcYY   Flagstaff, AZ
Already downgraded, nice. Feb 12, 2018
Eric D
Gnarnia
Eric D   Gnarnia
A huge congratulations to Laura. A note on the grade- she did call the route 13+ which is around where Darren and I estimated it to be when we were working it. Mar 1, 2018
1Eric Rhicard
Tucson
1Eric Rhicard   Tucson
Any of the down graders repeat it clean yet? Mar 2, 2018

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