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Routes in Sunshine Buttress

Colostrum T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c PG13
Criminal Minds S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Mango Boingo S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Mother's Milk S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Original Crankster, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Syndicate Fool S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Unbroken Chain S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Whores in Church S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
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Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Mike Williams
Page Views: 37 total · 6/month
Shared By: Pnelson on Feb 11, 2018
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

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Description

This recent addition to Sunshine Buttress is a new-school, slightly scary headpoint of sustained, delicate face climbing. Start on fairly easy terrain, moving out a slightly chossy roof to get established on the face left of Mother's Milk. Reach faaaaaaaar right to get some good gear in a horizontal before making a series of tenuous moves that embody classic New River Gorge power face climbing– big moves, small holds, delicate and high feet. The crux involves a small, right leaning crescent feature, with a thank-god bolt just over a small roof.

Location

Starts just right of the Whores in Church prow.

Protection

Bring all the small stuff, plus one bolt to bolted anchors. Though not R-rated, this climb has well-spaced gear with the possibility of big falls.

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