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Routes in The Mid West - Middle Wall

Batty S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dudeist Priest S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fledgling T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Quetzalcoatl T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Red Tail T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Swiftly S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Tooth Fairy, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Turning of the Tide S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Wrong Way Up T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Sport, 195 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 76 total · 31/month
Shared By: applewood on Feb 11, 2018
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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Description

Dudeist Priest - 5.10a *** (195') F(19b)
Climbs the arete at the far right (north) end of the Middle Wall (just right of the large corner that arcs left at the top). Can be done as one long or as two pitches;
P1 - 5.10a *** 80' F(8b) - begin at the lowest point of the toe of the small lower buttress and climb progressively harder moves (consistently great unique patin-like hedges from crimpers to jugs!) to the chain anchors above the large ledge.
P2 - 5.9 *** 115' F(10b) - from the belay ledge step right to mount the easy face above to the prominent inside corner. Climb the face just right of the corner until forced into the corner. Progressively harder moves lead to the thrilling finish and the chain anchors on the ledge on top. Possible to rap the route with a single 60m rope - carefully.

Location

At the far right (north) end of the Middle Wall climb the buttress just to the right of "Batty".

Protection

fixed - 8 bolts to chain anchors at mid ledge, another 10 to chain anchors on top (a medium cam - #1 or 2 - placements is possible in the 5.4 slightly runout section above the mid belay but not essential). 19 draws to lead as one pitch.

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