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Routes in Poke-O-Moonshine

Bushido T,TR WI4+
Christmas Gully (Upper Area Start) T WI3
Dark Lord T WI6
Discord T WI4+
Hidden Pique WI4
Horn of the Ram T WI4-
Midlife Crisis T WI5+
Neurosis WI4-
Positive Thinking WI5-
Waterfall, The T WI4-5
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Type: Trad, Ice, 180 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 122 total · 23/month
Shared By: Jerome St-Michel on Feb 10, 2018 with updates from Kris Fiore
Admins: Jim Lawyer

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Access Issue: Follow trail from old state campground Details

Description

You start underneath a roof in some sort of a cave. Climb the thin ice on the right side of this cave to the roof.

Break the roof onto a slab then on the pillar that raises on your right. You can place rock gear left of the pillar and higher on it. Climb throught overhanging mushrooms following the ice and get to less steep terrain. Finish on easier ground.

Location

This climb is located at an area called the Headwall in the Upper Tiers of Poke-O-Moonshine. Look for the spectacular flake of Plate Techtonics (a rock route) which is right next to Dark Lord.

Protection

Screws and rock gear including nuts and cams up Camalot #2.

Photos

Jim Lawyer

  WI5+
Jim Lawyer    
  WI5+
This is a really good route, arguably one of the better 5s in the park. But it's elusive -- you have to catch it right after it forms, as if there's any sun, combined with the jet-black rock, the rig becomes unstable or falls off entirely.

I climbed this with Joe Szot, who insisted it was one of THE best ice route in park. He also insisted I lead it, which I did. About half way up, the front bail broke on my crampon (back when that sort of thing happened a lot), so I downclimbed to a stance, hauled up Joe's crampon on my second rope, and completed the lead. Feb 12, 2018

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