Dark Lord

The route features two distinct starts, which rejoin above and share the steep middle third and upper part.

Direct / Original Start:

Start inside the cave, climbing straight out beneath the roof on thin, often detached ice. This opening section can be very technical and committing, and in lean conditions may approach WI6.

Left Bypass Start (Easier):

Begin well left of the cave, bypassing it entirely on lower-angle terrain. This option avoids the thin, technical ice inside the cave and is typically chosen when the direct ice is lean or poorly formed.

Both starts rejoin above the cave at a slab/ledge. From there, step onto the main pillar rising on climber’s right. Rock gear may be possible if ice coverage is limited. Continue through steep ice, often affected by sun exposure and the dark rock, and sometimes delaminated, before reaching a roof, and progressively less-steep terrain. Finish on easier ground.

This climb is located at an area called the Headwall in the Upper Tiers of Poke-O-Moonshine. Look for the spectacular flake of Plate Techtonics (a rock route) which is right next to Dark Lord.

Screws and rock gear including nuts and cams up Camalot #2.