Type: Trad, 420 ft, 5 pitches
FA: Mark Evans, Greg Troutman, George Maynard
Page Views: 1,601 total · 64/month
Shared By: greg t on Feb 5, 2018
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

In my bias opinion; this climb f*cking rules! ..find out for yourself.

Pitch 1: 10c Start in the left facing ow to hands crack. Follow the bolts up and then right. This pitch is a bit loose and dirty. ( getting cleaner, but still not why you're here ) Gear: #3 and draws.

Pitch 2: 11c The Crux pitch. Hard, sustained, excellent! Face traverse into the base of the flake. There are bolts for pro, gear is not a good idea behind the flake. Once the flake ends, crack switch left at the bolt and head up with some funky footwork and layback moves to a rest. Follow the crack up through various sizes to a rest before the final hard thin hands crux. Mantel onto the Party Ledge and celebrate!

Pitch 3: 11b Great fingers to a #.75 bulge; hand crack traverse left and up. After the traverse, instead of going up the OW, face traverse left around the large block to the anchor.

-Lower back down to the Party Ledge and either pull the rope or get a free TR on “DTFnC”

“DT Fluff ‘n Chug” aka Variation 29: 11a This is a variation on pitch 3. Tips and fingers with face holds on excellent rock. Another great pitch!

Pitch 4: 5.10 Face climbing with bolts and gear. 2 qd's, 3 runners, and a #2 is all you really need ( #1 & #3 optional ). When the route traverses right to a hard looking mantle with a loose x-block, take a right and keep traversing to the next bolt, then mantel. Ends on steep hands to a 3 bolt anchor. From the anchor walk up and left to the main summit.

Enjoy!!

( very sunny till late afternoon )

Location

The wooden outhouse 5.1 miles north of the San Rafael River bridge

Approach: From the large cave east of the wooden outhouse walk up the hill staying to the left of the largest bolder. Once you reach the wall, go right. Dep29 starts in the large left facing corner below an very large v-slot that is the final pitch.

Protection

Gear: (1x )green c3 & .3 (3x ).4 to #1 (1x )#2 & #3
optional #4

Photos