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The Violator Varation aka Violator

5.10a, Trad, 60 ft (18 m),  Avg: 2 from 1 vote
FA: unknown
Colorado > Lyons > St Vrain Canyons > Middle Fork of… > Violator Buttress
Warning Access Issue: Burned out house with a boarded up shack. DetailsDrop down

Description

We belayed at the base of a gully scrambling to the beginning of a crack 30 feet up. The action starts immediately with friendly right foot, small ledge halfway. We continued up to the end of the crack instead of traversing left, unlike description in Gillett's, so we added a variation to the route name.

Location

It is on the obvious cliff downstream from a shack. On the east face, find a hand crack halfway up the gully with orange lichen at the start.

Protection

A small standard rack plus #3, #3.5, #4, & #4.5 Camalots.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

From the bottom of the gully, the hidden 10a crack is a good challenge for its grade.
[Hide Photo] From the bottom of the gully, the hidden 10a crack is a good challenge for its grade.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

George Bracksieck
[Hide Comment] This is named "Violator" in Gillett. It is a right-angling crack that begins partway up the boulder-choked gully that defines the east face of Violator Buttress. Apr 21, 2018