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Tomb Raider

5.12a/b V4-5 M12- A2-, Sport, Aid, Boulder, Mixed, 50 ft (15 m),  Avg: 2.5 from 129 votes
FA: Kevin Capps and Michael Hauck, 2017
Colorado > Golden > Clear Creek Canyon > Graveyard
Warning Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures/CDOT Road Work DetailsDrop down

Description

Climb over a couple of bulges to reach the roof and the start of a small, right-facing corner. Make a couple of fun moves getting established and moving out to a jug below the lip. Find the holds over the lip (even if you can't see them!). Pull up, and clip the anchors.

This route is still evolving, with several loose holds.

I enjoyed the movement in the corner and hope it all stays together, but be careful till it cleans up.

Location

The left side of the Graveyard features a short roof. This route climbs the roof via a short, right-facing corner/groove. Begin just a few feet left of The Reaper.

Watch out for cactus!

Protection

6 bolts to anchors.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Super fun, thuggy movement!
[Hide Photo] Super fun, thuggy movement!
Entering the crux.
[Hide Photo] Entering the crux.
The static way.
[Hide Photo] The static way.
Just after the chains!
[Hide Photo] Just after the chains!
Before the difficult part.
[Hide Photo] Before the difficult part.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Mark E Dixon
Possunt, nec posse videntur
  5.12a
[Hide Comment] Also, the anchors could use some chain. As currently equipped, there is a bit of rope abrasion when lowering. Feb 4, 2018
Craig Faulhaber
  5.12b
[Hide Comment] A fun little crux once you figure it out, but lowering (especially to clean) is a serious rope-killer. Unless the anchors get moved, it would be smart to lower each time on rappel and clean it on TR. This still might tear your rope up a bit :( Feb 14, 2018
James Glover
Boulder, CO
[Hide Comment] The last bolt on this climb is taking a beating. I wish I had my wrench today, but I did not. I was able to hand tighten the bolt, approximately 6/7 rotations...but without a wrench, I was obviously not able to finish the job. I doubt I would climb this again without first tightening that bolt. Tightening it will help, but it may need more attention. Mar 31, 2018
Matt Lawry
Louisville, CO
 
[Hide Comment] Thanks for bringing the wrench to the crag, James! The last bolt, and 3rd from the last bolt were tightened down. I don't think these are bad bolts, as they tightened down well without an issue. Apr 16, 2018
yogicleo1
  5.12a/b
[Hide Comment] Aside from the rope abrasion after you send it and cleaning it on TR, it is a fantastic little boulder problem for those who do that sorta thing, lol. Hard for the grade, but I get it. :/ Worth the attempts. Jun 3, 2018
Kevin Capps
Golden, CO
 
[Hide Comment] I added chains to the anchor today. Now your rope runs freely below the sharp edge. Jun 16, 2019
Chris Ham
  5.12a/b
[Hide Comment] Thanks for adding the chains, Kevin! Still a bitch to clean, but that's expected with a steep route like this. Also, no loose bolts as of yesterday.

I think this deserves 3 stars now that the anchors have chains. Ended up just dynoing to the decent edge next to the anchors. I could see how this is 12b for shorter people. Jul 13, 2019
Deredacted Young
Denver, CO
 
[Hide Comment] Thanks for adding the anchor gear, Kevin! Apr 26, 2020
Cris Pezoa
Denver, CO
  5.12a
[Hide Comment] So much fun! Get on it! Nov 23, 2020
Marcel Vega
  5.12a/b
[Hide Comment] Three permadraws added on the overhang to get rid of the heinous cleaning of the route, 31JUL2022.

  • Keep an eye on the first bolt on the overhang - it has continued to come loose and spin. Tightened it down as much as I dared. Might consider adding some Locktite if it continues to loosen.*
Jul 31, 2022
Prav C
Arvada, CO
  5.12b
[Hide Comment] Thanks, Marcel, for adding the permas! Sweet boulder! If it was protectable with pads, it would be a classic V4/5 for sure. The crux move is probably a bit harder if you're short. I wonder what that big, ticked jug out right is for. I didn't use it on my send, and I haven't seen anyone else use it either. Seems too far to be useful. Dec 27, 2022
[Hide Comment] The block in the roof is like... so dangerously loose, if you're laybacking on it, there is a world in which it comes off and smashes into your face. Tbh, I would either dyno past it, or go out there and take it off, it's a danger to people nearby in the crag, and to anyone walking on the trail/sidewalk below, also, your belayer as well. Truly considering going out there and removing it so no one gets hurt. Jan 10, 2023
[Hide Comment] A beta video for those interested: youtube.com/watch?v=8aWvX-m…. Feb 26, 2023
Mikey Poo
  5.12a/b
[Hide Comment] This route was awesome. Someone described it to me as a boulder that you lead, which I think is accurate, but nonetheless, I had a great time working on it. The last big move feel glorious when you nail it. Nov 16, 2023
Jon Dawood
Denver, CO
[Hide Comment] I replaced the rope-side carabiner on the second permadraw today, as the existing one was severely worn and sharp. I only had an aluminum carabiner, so I'm sure it will wear out again pretty soon. Some steel carabiners would be a good addition here. Dec 16, 2023
Random Climber
Front Range
  5.12a/b V4-5
[Hide Comment] The bolts on the overhang on this one are pretty beat up, especially the first one. Given the traffic I saw on it today, I’d say some glue-ins would be ideal. Feb 25, 2024
Connor Dobson
Louisville, CO
 
[Hide Comment] I updated the bottom 2 permas with steel crabs. The dogbones are starting to look crusty, and the first bolt in the roof doesn't look perfect, but you do all of the real climbing with both bolts clipped.

If someone can teach me to funk those bolts out and has an extra glue-in, I have some AC100 and could replace the bolts in the roof with glue-ins. Happy to lend a hand where I can. Feb 25, 2024
Kevin Capps
Golden, CO
 
[Hide Comment] I agree, some glue-ins would be great on this route! As for the current bolts, I’m pretty sure I used a wide variety of different types at that crag, so I couldn’t tell you what they are off the top of my head, but with the amount of traffic and the outward pull on the bolts, glue-ins would be a huge improvement! Feb 26, 2024