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Routes in Spook Main Wall

007 S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Blowback S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Casper (a.k.a.) T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Class Act S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Corporate Ladder S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Day of the Jackel S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Friend of the Devil S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Language Barrier T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Last Call for Alcohol S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
MI6 (a.k.a.) S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
MI9 S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Mandatory Orientation T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Optional Disorientation (a.k.a) T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Plausible Denial S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rhumba of the Toads S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Ride the Lightning S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Rubberband Fingers Stand/Meine Gummi Frau V8 7B
Tiny Dancer S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Transylvanian Phlebotomist S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Venetian Tailor S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
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Type: Trad, TR, 45 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 112 total · 15/month
Shared By: gachen on Feb 3, 2018
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

Climb the left-facing corner to a ledge. Then head up the arete on the right to bolted anchors.
Crux is exiting small roof and getting to ledge; smearing and stemming helps.

Location

Left-facing corner leading to small roof, to the right of Class Act.

Protection

Two-bolt anchor with chains, shared with Mandatory Orientation and Language Barrier.
Can be reached from the top to set a TR. If TR'ing, would benefit from a directional piece in crack above ledge to minimize penduluming right and possible decking if falling at crux.

Photos

gachen
5.8
gachen  
5.8
Based on the description for Mandatory Orientation, we did this route thinking it was MO. Only upon viewing the beta photo for MO did we realize we were "disoriented." (Anybody have the original name and FA?) Feb 4, 2018

More About Optional Disorientation (a.k.a)

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