PRINT: Rock Climb Setting Sun, Wichita Mountains Wildlife Refuge

Setting Sun

5.8, Trad, 130 ft (39 m), 2 pitches,

Avg: 3.5 from 2 votes
FA: unknown
Oklahoma > Wichita Mountai… > Narrows > Sunshine Wall

Access Issue: Access is always an issue here. Details

Please do not litter and observe all regulations. We had to fight to regain access at one time, and we don't want to lose the privilege again. Local ethics and refuge regulations are that no bolting is permitted unless expressly authorized by the park. Leave the hammer and nails at home, no fixed gear please. Everything will go clean.

Description

This is a route my wife and I did to stay in the sun. I believe it is on the sunshine wall, but it is deffinately not next to the other routes. The first short pitch is the money. Varied face climbing protected by some good gear. The second pitch is maybe 5.7 a bit more run out. Fun, but not as good as the first pitch. It is more of a enjoyable summit pitch. I believe it is around the corner from around the sunshine wall route on the same piece of rock. If I am wrong about that please comment so I can fix it. Also, if someone knows an FAist let me know. I assume someone else has climbed it before.

Location

Around the arete (west) from the sunshine wall.

Protection

Single rack. Belay at tree on pitch 1 and sling blocks on top.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

First pitch is about 45ft 5.8+. The second pitch has some good slab down low and eases off to 5 easy up high. Short belay move over 4th class marked in between.

Second pitch is long a bit run out with fun slab. Here is a good profile shot to show the grade.

Pitch one 5.8+. Belay at tree.