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Routes in Flying Buttress

A-M aidline T A2-3
All Systems Go 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C3
All Systems Go (free) T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Anvil Spire North Face T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Arch Enemy T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Dune S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Epitaph T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Eraserhead Spire T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
It's a Breeze T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Queen's Bishop T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Technicolor Corner T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
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Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Kole DeCou/Jake Dayley 2006, FFA Jake Dayley 1/2018
Page Views: 119 total · 12/month
Shared By: Jake Dayley on Feb 1, 2018
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

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Description

This is the NE face original aid line. With the addition of two bolts and a lot of cleaning it has become an excellent free pitch dubbed "Blue Velvet"

Climb up 30' of choss to the top of the large detached block.

The next 30' are what you came for! Climb through cruxy finger locks and hand jams to a fun section of perfect fingers topped by a jug rest. Clip a bolt and muscle out the steep face climbing finish and classic 5.9 mantle onto the summit. This is a spire, no send without the mantle finish!

Location

The obvious Easter Island head shaped spire at the base of Arch Enemy.

One 60'rap form the Dune anchors will get you down.

Protection

Doubles from thin tips to fingers
Singles from big fingers to hands (#2 Camalot is the biggest piece you'll need)
Several 60cm slings (need two for anchors)
one quickdraw

One 60m rope.

Photos

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