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| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 600 ft (182 m), 4 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | B. King & N. Werr in 1909 |
| Page Views: | 647 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | Brian in SLC on Jan 30, 2018 |
| Admins: | Phil Lauffen, Shawn Heath |
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Description
The Alte Südwand is the classic old route on the Törlwand.
Climbing in 4 to as many as 7 pitches, the old south wall has reasonably solid rock but a helmet would be considered prudent. A rack with a sprinkling of quickdraws, slings, and a small set of nuts and cams is adequate.
After a healthy warm up hike approach, start on a steep pillar-esque area to the climber’s right of a chimney/slot. There’s a commemorative plaque located on the nearby wall. At the end of the nearly 50m first pitch, traverse to the right into a steep gully.
From the gully, climb up on the left and cross over the top of the gully to the right to a belay anchor for a short pitch. Follow a broken ledge right then up a steeper wall ending at the edge of a small grassy plateau (~45m).
The final head wall looms above wide grassy ledge. Finish either just right of a chimney on the left side, or, to the right up steep and broken terrain. Several options available to finish the final short steep bit to the summit, with the right variation being a touch harder.
Even though the grade is easy by sport climbing standards, this is a route with a very alpine feel. Exposed route finding, some loose rock (especially on any shallow ledges), and protection may be spread out and difficult. Weather can change quickly.
Enjoy the great views and airy summit ridge!
Descent: traverse across and down to the east (some on the north side of the ridge) ending up in a steep, exposed notch with a bolted belay anchor. From this notch, traverse to the anchor over the steep descent to the gully below (obvious egress trial in this gully). This single 30m rappel gobbles up a single 60m rope, starts steep and finishes in air. Follow the gully down then left to the marked trail back to the base.
Note: the bergsteigen.at website has a great topo for this route.
Climbing in 4 to as many as 7 pitches, the old south wall has reasonably solid rock but a helmet would be considered prudent. A rack with a sprinkling of quickdraws, slings, and a small set of nuts and cams is adequate.
After a healthy warm up hike approach, start on a steep pillar-esque area to the climber’s right of a chimney/slot. There’s a commemorative plaque located on the nearby wall. At the end of the nearly 50m first pitch, traverse to the right into a steep gully.
From the gully, climb up on the left and cross over the top of the gully to the right to a belay anchor for a short pitch. Follow a broken ledge right then up a steeper wall ending at the edge of a small grassy plateau (~45m).
The final head wall looms above wide grassy ledge. Finish either just right of a chimney on the left side, or, to the right up steep and broken terrain. Several options available to finish the final short steep bit to the summit, with the right variation being a touch harder.
Even though the grade is easy by sport climbing standards, this is a route with a very alpine feel. Exposed route finding, some loose rock (especially on any shallow ledges), and protection may be spread out and difficult. Weather can change quickly.
Enjoy the great views and airy summit ridge!
Descent: traverse across and down to the east (some on the north side of the ridge) ending up in a steep, exposed notch with a bolted belay anchor. From this notch, traverse to the anchor over the steep descent to the gully below (obvious egress trial in this gully). This single 30m rappel gobbles up a single 60m rope, starts steep and finishes in air. Follow the gully down then left to the marked trail back to the base.
Note: the bergsteigen.at website has a great topo for this route.
Location
Follow the Gildensteig trail toward (or from) the Kleine Törl pass. There’s a well worn path to the start of the route at the west side of the base of the South Face. A large boulder below the start of the route, just above the trail, makes a nice spot to stash the backpack. There’s a 25 year commemorative plaque placed in 1950 near the start of the route.
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