Avg: 2 from 1 vote
|Type:||Trad, 350 ft, 4 pitches|
|FA:||Giripremi Mountaineering Club, Pune|
|Page Views:||224 total · 10/month|
|Shared By:||Jayant Wakode on Jan 30, 2018|
At the start of the stairs leading the fort, there's a cave in the rock face. From here, look for a trail which leads to the base of waterfall line which is the start of the route.
Pitch 1 (4/5.5 - 35ft) : Easy slab climb, no protection
Pitch 2 (6a/5.10a/E3-6a - 100ft) : Wide chimney-crack intermediate width. Mix of body jamming, face climb and crack climb on 80deg incline. At the end of the crack, the rock becomes more vertical and on the right, you can see a huge ledge of grass, traverse for 10ft and you'll reach a station. Beware of loose rocks, alert your follower, he/she can hide at station-1 below the overhang. Don't forget using at least triple length extension to the cam placement before the traverse. Also use 3 tripled QuickDraws/ extended alpine draws on 2nd, 3rd and 4th bolts to avoid rope drag.
Pitch 3(4+/5.7 - 115t) Continue traversing towards right till a crack on the left of a white boulder. place gear, go over the boulder and climb up diagonally left towards a huge cave. Belay station on the left of the cave.
Pitch 4 (5a+/5.8/ E3-5b- 115ft) Start with the slab on the left. start traversing towards right to go above the cave. Clip the bolt. Flick the rope to get it straight above the belay station. Keep traversing towards right for about 15 ft till you find a bolt. Clip the bolt, put a long extension. You may pace some micro cams and ballnuts if you feel the need. Route is easy and good rock otherwise. Climb for another 20ft up(right of the waterfall line) and you are at the top.
All hangers were removed after the ascend, but bolts are intact
Standard Fischer 10mm bolts
BD friends ranging from #0 to #4 can be used
TOP: No bolts/ placement at the top. There are some boulders on the plateau which can be used for anchoring. But have atleast 50m rope for that. In addition, you have to belay the second from the edge of the cliff on the last pitch due to huge drag. Use large extensions to the bolts. At least triple length.