Type: Trad, 250 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Cayde Lloyd, Rob Robinson (P1) // Travis Heidepriem, Mark Westerberg (P2, P3)
Page Views: 704 total · 60/month
Shared By: tallmark515 on Jan 29, 2018
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions Details

Description

  • We cleaned Tennessee Strings and replaced its anchor in January 2018. Pitches 2 and 3 were established shortly thereafter. 

P1 “Tennessee Strings” (12a, 50’) What this pitch may lack in length, it makes up for in quality. Technical and powerful tiptoeing around a thin crack. Liebacks, side-pulls, crimps, and a few finger-locks! Vertical ballet!!

P2 “Tennessee Wall” (12b, 65’) Clip a bolt and make an awkward arm-bar move into a squeeze chimney (5.10), continue up the face above the flake/chimney past another 5 bolts to a pumpy and balancy crux section (12b) protected by 2 additional bolts. At the stance above the last bolt, gear (BD .4-.75) protects the final tricky moves up the short crack to the next anchor. (8 bolts)

Link p1 and p2 for “The Heidepriem Connection”.

P3 (10a, 100’) The crux move (10a) comes off the ledge at the first bolt. Continue to traverse left and climb up cool low-angle face features clipping more bolts to a roof. Plug-in some finger size pieces on the roof and traverse right to a dirty blocky ramp and a manzanita tree anchor at the top. (6 bolts)

Location

30 feet to the left of Hardd and about 10 feet left from a very thin crack/seam (Coffin Nail). Start the route from a (mostly) dead log.

Protection

Can be sewn up with small gear. Bring a double set of alloy offset nuts from medium sized alloy (red, blue, yellow) through small offset brass (and or DMM Peanuts). A single set of Mastercams from white through yellow, extra blue. Mastercams seems to work better than other brands, C3s also work well. 8 quickdraws for bolts on second and third pitches.

Photos

Brian Prince
morro bay, ca
Brian Prince   morro bay, ca
where's the 2nd pitch beta? :) Oct 9, 2018
tallmark515
San Francisco
  5.12b
tallmark515   San Francisco
  5.12b
Keep going up from anchor, squeeze chimney with a bolt, more bolts, 12b airy crux, more bolts, save a .4 and a .5 for the final crack at the top of the pitch. Third pitch traverses left from anchor, and mostly bolts with a few finger sized cams at the top, 10a. Safely bolted, 10 draws should do it. Tennessee Wall, bruh! Link p1&2 for a mega pitch, “The Heidepriem Connection”. Oct 10, 2018
tallmark515
San Francisco
  5.12b
tallmark515   San Francisco
  5.12b
RIP mostly-dead log at the base, it is now ash at the base. Start is now a bit harder. Nov 12, 2018
John Clark
San Francisco, CA
 
John Clark   San Francisco, CA
 
Start move is reachy lockoff 11+ move now Dec 17, 2018