Type: Trad, 250 ft (76 m), 3 pitches
FA: Cayde Lloyd, Rob Robinson (P1) // Travis Heidepriem, Mark Westerberg (P2 & P3)
Page Views: 3,000 total · 51/month
Shared By: tallmark515 on Jan 29, 2018 · Updates
Admins: Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Salamanizer Ski

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Access Issue: Latest updates on Covid and falcon closures. Details

Description

In January of 2018, the existing route “Tennessee Strings” was cleaned and it’s anchor bolts were modernized. Pitches 2 and 3 were established shortly thereafter. 

P1 “Tennessee Strings” (12a, 50’) What this pitch may lack in length, it makes up for in quality. Technical and powerful tiptoeing around a thin crack. Liebacks, side-pulls, crimps, and a few finger-locks! Vertical ballet!!

P2 “Tennessee Wall” (12b, 65’) Clip a bolt and make an awkward arm-bar move into a squeeze chimney (5.10), continue up the face above the flake/chimney past another 5 bolts to a pumpy and balancy crux section (12b) protected by 2 additional bolts. At the stance above the last bolt, gear (BD .4-.75) protects the final tricky moves up the short crack to the next anchor (8 bolts). Link p1 and p2 for “The Heidepriem Connection”.

P3 “Tennessee Wall” (10a, 100’) The crux move (10a) comes off the ledge at the first bolt. Continue to traverse left and climb up cool low-angle face features clipping more bolts to a roof. Plug-in some finger size pieces on the roof and traverse right to a dirty blocky ramp and a manzanita tree anchor at the top. (6 bolts)

Location

30 feet to the left of Hardd and about 10 feet left from a very thin crack/seam (Coffin Nail). Start from the ashes of a dead tree. With a little reach it may be possible to place gear from the angled trunk of a nearby  tree, this will will protect the opening moves. 

Protection

Can be sewn up with small gear. Bring a double set of alloy offset nuts from medium sized alloy (red, blue, yellow) through small offset brass (and or DMM Peanuts). A single set of Mastercams from white through yellow, extra blue. Mastercams seems to work better than other brands, C3s also work well. 8 quickdraws for bolts on second and third pitches.

Photos