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Routes in The Cookie Cliff

Aftershock T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
America's Cup T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
Anathema T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Beverly's Tower T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Butterballs T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Butterfingers T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Catchy T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Catchy Corner T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Chicken Delight TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Chips Ahoy S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Cleft, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cookie Left Side T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cookie Monster S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Cookie-Center, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cookie-Right, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Crack-a-Go-Go T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Dynamite Crack V0+ 4+
Elevator Shaft, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Enema, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Enigma, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hardd T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Jardine's Hand T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Meat Grinder T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Outer Limits T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pringles S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Red Zinger T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Renegade, The T 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Stigma, The T A3
Tennessee Strings T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Twilight Zone T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Twinkie T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Vendetta T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Waverly Wafer T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Wheat Thin T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
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Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Cayde Lloyd, Rob Robinson
Page Views: 477 total · 55/month
Shared By: tallmark515 on Jan 29, 2018
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions Details

Description

This old forgotten route was cleaned and the anchors were replaced in January 2018.

What this route may lack in length, it makes up for in quality. Technical and powerful tiptoeing around a thin crack. Liebacks, side-pulls, crimps, and a few finger-locks! Vertical ballet!!

Location

30 feet to the left of Hardd and about 10 feet left from a very thin crack/seam (Coffin Nail). Start the route from a (mostly) dead log.

Protection

Can be sewn up with small gear. Bring a double set of alloy offset nuts from medium sized alloy (red, blue, yellow) through small offset brass (and or DMM Peanuts). A single set of Mastercams from white through yellow, extra blue. Mastercams seems to work better than other brands, C3s also work well.

Photos

Brian Prince
morro bay, ca
Brian Prince   morro bay, ca
where's the 2nd pitch beta? :) Oct 9, 2018
tallmark515
San Francisco
  5.12a
tallmark515   San Francisco
  5.12a
Keep going up from anchor, squeeze chimney with a bolt, more bolts, 12b airy crux, more bolts, save a .4 and a .5 for the final crack at the top of the pitch. Third pitch traverses left from anchor, and mostly bolts with a few finger sized cams at the top, 10a. Safely bolted, 10 draws should do it. Tennessee Wall, bruh! Link p1&2 for a mega pitch, “The Heidipreim Connection”. 6 days ago

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