Type: Trad, Aid, 200 ft, 4 pitches
FA: Mickey Guziak, Robert Rowsam, Peter Blank, Jan. 2018
Page Views: 481 total · 22/month
Shared By: Peter Blank on Jan 29, 2018
Admins: Jesse Zacher, Jared LaVacque, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: Stay on trails. Some areas are wilderness and cannot be bolted on. Details

Description

The devil remains... overlooked until now probably due to the fact that the summit touches the adjoining buttress. If the top pitch didn't list, this would be a very aesthetic tower. As word of the quality of this route spreads, I expect it to become quite popular. It might even take some pressure off The Creek.

P1. Climb up OW to chimney, and construct belay on same level as arch.

P2. Inspect a Jenga stack that supports the right side of OW that leads into chimney. Don't let the stack collapse while fighting upward as you would surely perish. Once in chimney, build a belay with finger-sized gear.

P3. Chimney up with sandy stems to sub-summit. You may or may not encounter opportunities for reasonable protection, but it is definitely spooky.

P4. Span across the void into a thin crack. A long reach up and left changes cracks, then move up to a garbage pod where it is possible to sling a hueco. Hand place 2 angles, and flop to summit.

Descent: do 1 double rope rap off 2 well placed bolts.

Location

It is in Devil's Canyon. This ascends a jug handle arch looking feature just up canyon from Pitchfork Tower.

Protection

A standard desert rack and 2 baby angles to hand place.

Photos

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