Failed Exorcism Arch - The Power of Christ Compels You
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British C1
Avg: 3 from 2 votes
Type: | Trad, Aid, 200 ft (61 m), 4 pitches |
FA: | Mickey Guziak, Robert Rowsam, Peter Blank, Jan. 2018 |
Page Views: | 1,118 total · 15/month |
Shared By: | Peter Blank on Jan 29, 2018 |
Admins: | Jesse Zacher, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Your To-Do List:
Add To-Do ·
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Description
The devil remains... overlooked until now probably due to the fact that the summit touches the adjoining buttress. If the top pitch didn't list, this would be a very aesthetic tower. As word of the quality of this route spreads, I expect it to become quite popular. It might even take some pressure off The Creek.
P1. Climb up OW to chimney, and construct belay on same level as arch.
P2. Inspect a Jenga stack that supports the right side of OW that leads into chimney. Don't let the stack collapse while fighting upward as you would surely perish. Once in chimney, build a belay with finger-sized gear.
P3. Chimney up with sandy stems to sub-summit. You may or may not encounter opportunities for reasonable protection, but it is definitely spooky.
P4. Span across the void into a thin crack. A long reach up and left changes cracks, then move up to a garbage pod where it is possible to sling a hueco. Hand place 2 angles, and flop to summit.
Descent: do 1 double rope rap off 2 well placed bolts.
P1. Climb up OW to chimney, and construct belay on same level as arch.
P2. Inspect a Jenga stack that supports the right side of OW that leads into chimney. Don't let the stack collapse while fighting upward as you would surely perish. Once in chimney, build a belay with finger-sized gear.
P3. Chimney up with sandy stems to sub-summit. You may or may not encounter opportunities for reasonable protection, but it is definitely spooky.
P4. Span across the void into a thin crack. A long reach up and left changes cracks, then move up to a garbage pod where it is possible to sling a hueco. Hand place 2 angles, and flop to summit.
Descent: do 1 double rope rap off 2 well placed bolts.
1 Comment