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Juggalo Gigalo

5.6, Sport, 65 ft (20 m),  Avg: 1.5 from 10 votes
FA: Scott McDaniel
Arizona > Central Arizona > Stewart Pocket > Stewart Peak

Description

Juggalo Gigalo is a well-protected slab route, which makes it great for beginner leaders, or those new to slab climbing. The summit of Stewart Peak is easily accessed from the top of the climb.

Juggalo Gigalo can be started by using the boulders to the left or right of the face, but a more direct, 5.8-ish start is possible (and makes things a little more interesting). First bolt can be reached and clipped before climbing begins.

Look for the "optional dyno" to the flake just after bolt 3. Some might find this reachy move on a relatively blank face to be the crux; others might find it to be getting over the bulge just below bolt 5. The route begins to move slightly left after bolt 3, and trends back to the right on a low-angle to the anchors after clearing the bulge.

Mind the choss on the step across between bolts 4 and 5!

Location

Located on the south face of Stewart Peak, about 100' west of 'All Hail The Mighty Tri-Sac-A-Saurus' and 'PBDS'.

The route starts on a boulder just below the face that the climb is on.

Protection

7 bolts to 2-bolt anchor w/ rap rings.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Nat Kasper linking the top of Juggalo Gigalo with the crack climb that starts just below the tree (as Colorado the crag dog looks on, mostly unenthused). Great variation!
[Hide Photo] Nat Kasper linking the top of Juggalo Gigalo with the crack climb that starts just below the tree (as Colorado the crag dog looks on, mostly unenthused). Great variation!
Neil Soneson belaying AnneLiese Nachman on top rope.
[Hide Photo] Neil Soneson belaying AnneLiese Nachman on top rope.
Nabbing the FA just after bolting was finished!
[Hide Photo] Nabbing the FA just after bolting was finished!
Looking up at the route from the first bolt.
[Hide Photo] Looking up at the route from the first bolt.