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Routes in Poke-O-Moonshine

Bushido T,TR WI4+
Christmas Gully (Upper Area Start) T WI3
Dark Lord T WI6
Discord T WI4+
Hidden Pique WI4
Horn of the Ram T WI4-
Midlife Crisis T WI5+
Neurosis WI4-
Positive Thinking WI5-
Waterfall, The T WI4-5
Type: Trad, Ice, 150 ft
FA: Ian Osteyee and Alden Pellet Jan 2006
Page Views: 96 total · 31/month
Shared By: Robert Hall on Jan 22, 2018
Admins: Jim Lawyer

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Access Issue: Follow trail from old state campground Details

Description

In Mellor's guidebook "Blue Lines 2" this is given a 3+ but it seemed a bit more committing than that under the conditions we encountered.

Approach via the path to the "Waterfall" and continue left on the path until just before it starts to drop down steeply. You'll see a 20 ft high low-angle slab and above the slab a traverse ledge that leads to an inside corner.

START- Scramble left on the ledge (thus traversing beneath the climb "Goat's Foot on Ice") and establish a belay beneath the shallow inside corner. "Horn" climbs this.

P1 Climb up the corner, crux at a short vertical section near the middle, and belay at trees above.

Descent- Rap the "Goat's Foot" Rap (2 ropes, vertical and 30 ft free) or descend via the "Descent Gully/"Chimney" at the right-hand end of Waterfall.

Protection

The usual ice gear.

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