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Routes in Hayes Mountain

Sans Defaillance T WI3+
Simple Gifts WI5
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Type: Trad, Ice, 100 ft
FA: 2009ish
Page Views: 43 total · 7/month
Shared By: Jay Harrison on Jan 22, 2018
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


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Description

After a long, deep-snow slog into the cliff, Todd Paris and I spied lots of ice...all of it way too intimidating. But we persisted, slogged even farther, up a long, steep diagonal ramp, hoping for access to TR something. We were thwarted in that regard; the ramp ends with 60' or more of cliff to go.
However, the ice to our left looked possibly feasible at our timid limits, so sucking it up we tackled that line, giving us this little gem. At that time, it was the hardest ice I'd ever led.
Climb up a short initial obstacle onto a large, sloping ledge. Tromp up to the vertical ice obstructing access to steep, but not vertical, flows and take the left-trending passage to the top.
There is also a nice mixed line going straight up the dead-end face at the top of the ramp; probably M3.

Location

After reaching the large amphitheater at the base of Hayes' biggest cliff, walk down to the left end, turn uphill, ascending a steepening right-rising diagonal ramp to its end. The ice of this route lies on the left face here.

Protection

6 or 7 ice screws.

Photos

losbill  
Jay great photos. I don't know anything about ice climbing but that pitch looks uber sweet. Good move taking Todd with you on a heavy slogging day. Did he wear his sandals on the approach or actually put some boots on? Great piece of work guys! Jan 23, 2018

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