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Crimp on Crimp Crime
5.11 YDS 6c+ French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E4 5c British
Avg: 3.8 from 9
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Routes in Mt Florida
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Chevlon Corner T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Crimp on Crimp Crime T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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| Type: | Trad, 550 ft (167 m), 5 pitches |
| FA: | Z. Harrison, B. McCord |
| Page Views: | 1,961 total · 26/month |
| Shared By: | Blake M on Jan 21, 2018 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
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Description
Pitch 1 - 5.11
Locate the tips crack. Blerch off the ground to a stance where you can build a nest. Orbit your nest on patina jugs and lunch into the steep fingers above. Pull a bulge followed by some wacky jams, then traverse left to the belay.
Pitch 2 - 5.10
Step left and head up the system follow it up left then right past some fiddly gear. Punch up past 3 bolts to an anchor in a small dihedral.
NOTE: You can leave some of the rack here for retrieval on the rap. Continue with 1x Red c3, 2x .3-#1, 1X #2
Pitch 3 - 5.11
Climb up and left to the arete, then back right on a beautiful shield. 11 Bolts, and a few cams.
Pitch 4 - 5.11-
Climb up some systems to a bolt on the right, clip bolts until they disappear and continue up the system to a final bolt. Belay on the best ledge of the route. 7 Bolts
Pitch 5 - 5.11 A0 / 5.12
Boulder up and left, then waltz up a crimpy seam. Once the holds run out, choose your destiny and either A0 over the budge or fall off. Continue up the hero jugs for several more bolts.
Descent
Rap the route with 1 70m rope. From the top of pitch two rap straight down to a off-route station from which a final rap takes you to the ground. TIE KNOTS a couple of the raps are close.
Locate the tips crack. Blerch off the ground to a stance where you can build a nest. Orbit your nest on patina jugs and lunch into the steep fingers above. Pull a bulge followed by some wacky jams, then traverse left to the belay.
Pitch 2 - 5.10
Step left and head up the system follow it up left then right past some fiddly gear. Punch up past 3 bolts to an anchor in a small dihedral.
NOTE: You can leave some of the rack here for retrieval on the rap. Continue with 1x Red c3, 2x .3-#1, 1X #2
Pitch 3 - 5.11
Climb up and left to the arete, then back right on a beautiful shield. 11 Bolts, and a few cams.
Pitch 4 - 5.11-
Climb up some systems to a bolt on the right, clip bolts until they disappear and continue up the system to a final bolt. Belay on the best ledge of the route. 7 Bolts
Pitch 5 - 5.11 A0 / 5.12
Boulder up and left, then waltz up a crimpy seam. Once the holds run out, choose your destiny and either A0 over the budge or fall off. Continue up the hero jugs for several more bolts.
Descent
Rap the route with 1 70m rope. From the top of pitch two rap straight down to a off-route station from which a final rap takes you to the ground. TIE KNOTS a couple of the raps are close.
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