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| Type: | Trad, 180 ft (55 m) |
| FA: | SRuff & DCuster |
| Page Views: | 633 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | dave custer on Jan 20, 2018 |
| Admins: | Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Aaron Mc, Justin Johnsen |
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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet.
Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm, the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
Description
If you are struggling with your crack addiction, this might be the cure you’re looking for—or perhaps you’ll find yourself back into the cycle of addiction. The climb has continually excellent moves but is marred by an awkward flirtation between gorgeous varnish and insecure, sandy rock.
Up the thin-hand crack (harder than it looks) and more cracks to the ledge. Hug a sandy pillar. Gain the slot & its delightful crack systems. Up to the slightly overhanging crack/corner. Here, “uncertainty and conflicting emotions [may] begin to play a role.” Haul yourself out on the face on the right. Continue up the crack & face in solid rock to the flats.
Up the thin-hand crack (harder than it looks) and more cracks to the ledge. Hug a sandy pillar. Gain the slot & its delightful crack systems. Up to the slightly overhanging crack/corner. Here, “uncertainty and conflicting emotions [may] begin to play a role.” Haul yourself out on the face on the right. Continue up the crack & face in solid rock to the flats.
Location
On the climber's left/lower end of the cliff, a narrow buttress with a prominent thin-hands crack in high quality rock at its base descends from the ledge system below the roof.
Descent: Scramble climber’s right up a gully; at its top, climb a bonus pitch (5.6ish), a wide (#4/#5 camalots) crack whose top is roughly below Clyde Finds Wellington. From here, down and climber’s right to the climber's left end of the Slot Club Wall, including a short down climb. Descend skier’s left below Slot Club Wall until it is possible to zig (skier’s right) back to the base of Lower Slot Club
Descent: Scramble climber’s right up a gully; at its top, climb a bonus pitch (5.6ish), a wide (#4/#5 camalots) crack whose top is roughly below Clyde Finds Wellington. From here, down and climber’s right to the climber's left end of the Slot Club Wall, including a short down climb. Descend skier’s left below Slot Club Wall until it is possible to zig (skier’s right) back to the base of Lower Slot Club
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