Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Chinaman's Bluff

Ravages of Time T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 780 ft, 9 pitches, Grade IV
FA: unknown
Page Views: 22 total · 22/month
Shared By: EmilyTonish on Jan 20, 2018
Admins:

You & This Route


1 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

P1 17- Often avoided due to vegetation.

The start of P2 is 20 m to the right of P1. Most climbers start here.

P2 17-Up black slab to sandy ledge and scramble right to DBA

P3 18-Clip bolt then follow crack. Traverse right underneath the roof to rock over on the face and step into fist-jam territory. DBA is above the tree.
  • Variation 20- Follow crack and clip first bolt of P2 of Chink in... then go right to finger crack before moving Right onto face.

P4 18- Follow a crack that takes you rightwards to an arete and to another crack system. DBA is on a ledge by a tree.

P5 20- Traverse left to a crack leading to some unrelenting face climbing and to a belay stance at the top of the wall.

From this belay access the second part of the climb by scrambling up to a tree with rappel slings. Travers right for few metres to the foot of an overhanging arete with DBA at its base.
P6 17- Step up on the left arete in order to traverse right at the end of it to get to an exposed DBA.

P7 16- Scale up the face right of the arete using a mixture of gear and bolts. Long and splendid pitch. Belay on tree and comfy ledge.

P8 16- Head up on the low angled slab past a ledge then right to another tree belay.

Head straight up to the base of the wall. Move right for 15 m to an obvious wide crack.

P9 20- Big holds at first lead to a technical and steep finish. Classy last pitch.

Decent- rap the route from belay stations until P5. Rap first part of route via Chink in shinning armor. From ledge walk climbers left to two ring hangers. Rap Chink in shining armor and then another 3x30 raps, plus 1x15 to get to the base.

Avoid rapping from trees, as they my pull under load.

Protection

Wide range of trad gear and bolts. Some bolted anchors, some slung trees.

Photos

- No Photos -

0 Comments

More About Ravages of Time

Printer-Friendly Guide