Type: Trad, 600 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: unknown
Page Views: 161 total · 13/month
Shared By: Tim Meehan on Jan 20, 2018
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details


Start on either the outside (face) or the inside (chimney) of a very large, detached, leaning flake at the base of the slab. At the top of the flake, choose one of two vertical grooves. Continue up past a crack under a horizontal flake. Aim for a left-leaning groove that becomes vertical and splits the first major roof.

After the roof, you will be on spacious ledge with a few trees. At this point, trend right up the face to the next large, treed ledge. Then choose a groove, and climb it to a right-leaning feature that is at times a ramp and at times an arete. Climb this feature, or the face below it, to the top of a small pinnacle with an easy exit to the right into the large, tree-filled gully.

The descent is either (1) down this tree filled gully, with possible tree rappel near bottom, or (2) up the gully, with a short scramble down the back side at a break in the cliff, and down the back side. There is a convenient place to bail off the route into the gully about two-thirds of the way up, off a large ledge.


Hike up Bear Canyon Trail. Merge with the Mesa Trail, and cross Bear Creek at the stone bridge. Continue and split off into the upper canyon past the power tower. Eventually the trail levels off and crosses Bear Creek again, to the north side. Continue until the trail crosses a dry wash that empties the small canyon between Dinosaur and Green Mountains. This is where you head off trail, to the right, toward the base of the slab. Head northwest along the east slope of the ridge that leads to the base of the route. The entire hike takes about an hour.


A standard Flatiron rack, expect a standard Flatiron runout. Be sure to bring a nut tool for gardening, as the grooves provide occasional good protection, but you have to dig for it. The first 100 feet of the route are the hardest to protect, so choose your bearings carefully.