Type: Trad, TR, Aid, 85 ft, Grade II
FA: Herby Hendricks and Steve Cheyney
Page Views: 134 total · 12/month
Shared By: Tommy Hendricks on Jan 18, 2018
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: 2015 Seasonal falcon nesting closures - reduced Details
Access Issue: 2017 Seasonal Closures - Partial Closure Lifting Details

Description

This is a super, unaccredited crack climb into a unique place of The Garden, Hidden Valley! The crux is just after the first few moves and when you arrive at "the ledge". From here is a series of sandy, decent potholes and 5.11 finger cracks at a slight overhang for 20 feet or so, followed by 5.8 hand crack to the top of the climb.

From here, you can choose to go into the hidden valley, or go up left on the Tower of Babble or up onto the summit ridge of North Gateway. You can do a left rap off of the tower and a right off the summit ridge.

This route can also be toproped via hiking the southwestern Tourist Gully all the way across to the noticeable north end of Kissing Camels. A series of two bomber rappel anchors will get you into Hidden Valley.

Location

The climb is on North Gateway Rock at the far left end. It starts on the northern end of the west face maybe a 100 feet to the right of Anaconda. It is the obvious pothole crack up into the saddle.

Rappel off the east face with two 60s. One 70m does not make it to ground!

Protection

12 quickdraws or alpine draws, 6 drilled pitons, a 70 meter rope, and 0.3 through 3 cams are comforting though can be done with out if you love runouts.

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