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Routes in La Costanera

Flying Hyena S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Mucho Pumpito S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Pablo's Squirmfest S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
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Type: Sport, 400 ft, 5 pitches
FA: Craig Luebben, Cameron Cross & Armando Menocal, 2000
Page Views: 58 total · 8/month
Shared By: Jerome St-Michel on Jan 15, 2018
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Description

This is big wall sport climbing, the mega classic multipitch climb at La Costanera. This might be the coolest multipitch route in Cuba.

P1: Climb a slabby section left of a huge roots passing a couple of bolts to a cave. Exit the cave and climb a short steep section on good holds to a ledge and an anchor. (5.10b) 30m

P2: From the right end of the ledge follow bolts that leads right of the big tufa. Climb it to the top to reach a 3 bolts anchor. (5.10c) 25m

P3: Climb the left leaning crack to reach the overhanging column. Climb the column moving on its left side. Traverse to an anchor from its top. (5.11b) 25m

P4: Traverse right from the anchor on delicate holds to jugs. Clip a bolt and do a reachy move on tiny pockets and gain a slab. Take a rest and climb steeping terrain (crux) to a column. Climb to the top of the column to and hanging belay. There are 2 anchors. (5.11d) 25m

P5: Traverse left climbing the roof and enjoy the exposure! This one is very pumpy and also closely bolted. Finish on good holds at an hanging belay. (5.12b) 15m P5 can be linked with P4 using long slings raising the grade to 5.12c.

Descent: You have to carry a second rope that you will have to fix atop P3. Then you carry the other end to the top. From the top rappel with the two ropes and use the fix rope to pull back to the top of P3. Do another double rap to get to the ground.

Location

The route start left from the point where the trail meets the cliff and follows a massive black stripe that runs to the top of P2.

Protection

Quickdraws!

Photos

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