PRINT: Rock Climb Baa, Baa, Black Sheep, Glenwood Springs

Baa, Baa, Black Sheep

5.12a, Sport, 75 ft (23 m),

Avg: 3.4 from 30 votes
FA: Dave Pegg, 2010
Colorado > Glenwood Springs > Main Elk Creek > Main Elk Crag

Description

Pull powerful moves through the low roof up to a cool, tufa-esque pinch. Pull over the roof to the third clip and a few more big moves to easier ground above. After a nice rest, continue up easy ground through cool rock formations and a few challenging moves as you traverse rightwards. Pull the final roof, and climb up the tenuous slab to the anchors. The line wanders quite a bit, so long draws are nice on the 2nd, 6th, and 7th bolts.

There appears to be a variation halfway up that traverses into the finish for "Big Kitty".

This is probably on the lower end of 12b.

Location

It is on the Mutton Wall on the left side of the wall.

Protection

10 bolts to anchors. If not solid at the grade, consider stick clipping or hanging a long draw on the third bolt.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

D F
Carbondale, CO

5.12a

While the 5.12b rating is overly generous, the difficulty of this endurance route will be affected by how long or short your wingspan is—a monkey bar route if there ever was one until the footsy slab at the finish! Apr 12, 2018

Devon Dennis
Córdoba, AR

Does anyone know the route to the left of this? It's between this one and Bladerunner, in the corner. Felt like a 5.11c, but I have no idea. Jul 9, 2019

Sean Mapoles
Denver, CO

@Devon Dennis, also unsure about the route between Bladerunner and Baa, Baa, Black Sheep. Felt on the easier side of 11+. Fantastic 3 start route for anyone considering. Jul 12, 2020

J Achey

Hi, Devon and Sean. The route left of Blacksheep is called The Get Down, 5.11b-ish, we thought (if you do it right!). There also is a variation (The Get Right) that drifts right after the low crux, does a few of the juggy middle moves on Blacksheep (but with separate bolts out left), then comes back left into the high crux of The Get Down. This avoids the whole stemming-corner, no-hands-rests section and the pumpier climbing probably makes the whole thing .11c, and agreed, DF, Blacksheep is .12a unless you're short. We uprated that one in the last edition of the guidebook after watching several valiant short people struggle and prevail! Dec 21, 2020

Steven Dewitt
Denver

5.12a

So much fun off the deck, there’s a kneebar for us short folk that make the roof a bit more static:) Dec 17, 2023