In Your Face [Suggest Change]
Avg: 2 from 2 votes
|Type:||Trad, 2 pitches, Grade II|
|FA:||Uwe Schneider, Chris Stevens and Brian Tessier|
|Page Views:||78 total · 15/month|
|Shared By:||Uwe Schneider on Jan 13, 2018|
|Admins:||Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall|
Description [Suggest Change]
This route climbs the face to the right of the upper half of Inferno's 5.8 crack pitches. 1) Climb up a slab past some horizontal cracks (hidden protection) heading for a left facing ear of rock. After placing gear in the ear make a committing mantle onto the ear and clip a bolt. Make a difficult high step (5.10a) continuing up the face above passing two horizontal cracks. Above a second bolt, make some hard moves (5.10d) to a horizontal ledge and step left to a shared belay on Inferno. 2) Step back right and face climb straight up past a piton and and a bolt (5.10d) to a good stance and a second bolt. Make another hard 5.10 move straight up past the bolt or step right a few feet to an easier finish on easier ground (5.8). The initial slab was rumored to have been climbed by Henry Barber as a start to the Inferno cracks way back when.
Location [Suggest Change]
Hotter than Hell or Inferno are the most popular routes to get to the tree ledge.
Protection [Suggest Change]
Standard Cathedral/Whitehorse rack up to 3 1/2". A .5 tri cam was used to protect the opening moves on the first pitch and a larger camming unit to protect the mantle move onto the ear.
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