Type: Trad, 2 pitches, Grade II
FA: Uwe Schneider, Chris Stevens and Brian Tessier
Page Views: 109 total · 10/month
Shared By: Uwe Schneider on Jan 13, 2018
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

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Description

This route climbs the face to the right of the upper half of Inferno's 5.8 crack pitches. 1) Climb up a slab past some horizontal cracks (hidden protection) heading for a left facing ear of rock. After placing gear in the ear make a committing mantle onto the ear and clip a bolt. Make a difficult high step (5.10a) continuing up the face above passing two horizontal cracks. Above a second bolt, make some hard moves (5.10d) to a horizontal ledge and step left to a shared belay on Inferno. 2) Step back right and face climb straight up past a piton and and a bolt (5.10d) to a good stance and a second bolt. Make another hard 5.10 move straight up past the bolt or step right a few feet to an easier finish on easier ground (5.8). The initial slab was rumored to have been climbed by Henry Barber as a start to the Inferno cracks way back when.

Location

Hotter than Hell or Inferno are the most popular routes to get to the tree ledge.

Protection

Standard Cathedral/Whitehorse rack up to 3 1/2". A .5 tri cam was used to protect the opening moves on the first pitch and a larger camming unit to protect the mantle move onto the ear.

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