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Routes in Panther Peak

Krymptonite T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Rack 'em up, Reid T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
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Type: Trad, Alpine, 600 ft, 5 pitches, Grade II
FA: FRA Daniel Jeffcoach and Adam Burch 4/2015 - Direct Finish Alaina Robertson, Vitaliy Musiyenko, Daniel Jeffcoach 10/2015
Page Views: 109 total · 11/month
Shared By: Ocalslay Onlyyay on Jan 8, 2018
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Always check SEKI road conditions and peregrine closures Details

Description

Scrappy 10a up the obvious line of weakness on the eastern portion of Panther Peak. Gear is pretty good the whole way, and the climbing is varied. Direct finish looks like more fun and is harder than original - FRA team caught in a thundersnow storm and had to hurry off.

Description and main photo mostly borrowed from Daniel's cool website sekiclimbing.com/panther-pe…

P1 At the low point on the south face, take the deceptively hard low angle ramp up and left to a big ledge above.

P2 Head up the chimney, and make your way up the crack systems to the left of the steep headwall. Belay where you feel like it, braj.

P3 continue up the same system, angling slightly left to belay at the base of a licheney dihedraley chimneyish corner.

P4 head up through the chimney, curse the bush at the top, and belay where it feels good.

P5-6 Original - head up the 3rd/4th class gulley and then left up a ramp. Traverse off the west side of the summit.

P5 Direct - From the top of P4, climb up and to the righ tof the chimney and then take the cracks that lead to an OW in a small roof. Climb this and follow the zig-zag wide cracks to the summit.

Location

Hike up to near the summit of Panther Peak, and you have a couple options. Scramble up to the top of Krypmtonite on the neighboring pinnacle, and rappel twice if you've got 70M halfropes. Likely you don't, so instead, scramble/hike down from the ridge to the base of the climb on the south side of the mountain.

Protection

Doubles from small to 3", singles to 6" if you want the direct finish, 5" for the original recipe.

Photos

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