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Routes in Sector Mars

Biosphere S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Boubouki S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Boubouki Extension S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Chuck Notis S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
E.S.A. S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
El Gecko S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Jumanji S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Mystère et Boule de Gomme S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Pontiki sto Tiri S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Pontiki sto Tiri Extension S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Sinter Synphonie S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Spaceman Spiff S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Tufatango S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Yoko M-Ono S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 130 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 49 total · 14/month
Shared By: Lena chita on Jan 8, 2018
Admins: Jason Halladay, WAGbag

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Description

From the intermediate anchors continues up through the roof.

70m rope is not enough to lower, need to use 80m rope, or re-thread at the intermediate anchors.

Protection

bolts + 2-bolt anchors.

Photos

Colin Brochard
Austin
 
Colin Brochard   Austin
 
This route is the Sickness!!!! I used long slings in the tufa forest first pitch and a light 80m rope. Tried this thing maybe 5-6 times over 3 days back in May.. came very close to the redpoint, but no dice.

BETA SPRAY!!!!! Cruise up the 6b tufa forest to the first anchors. Gather yourself...try not to get pumped while you do a balancy 6b+ish sequence up a tufa. Shake out. grab the RAD doorknob hold in the roof then fire through awesome gymnastic movement on bomber pockets winding up right and then back left through the overhang. Cop a quick shake on a crazy 'thread' hold at the lip before busting a few more burly moves up and over to a big hole on the headwall where you can cop a no hands kneebar. Wipe the sweat off, gather your gut busted and pumped self and then do 10m more of 6bish pocket pulling to the anchors. 5-star!!!! Jan 16, 2018
Lena chita
Cleveland, OH
 
Lena chita   Cleveland, OH
 
Yes, those few burly moves to the hole spit me out! Wish I had more time to try it! But with our 70m rope, and the crag being busy, seemed like a waste of time to wait for my turn, when I could be climbing other routes. Jan 16, 2018

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