Type: Sport, 130 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 104 total · 8/month
Shared By: Lena chita on Jan 8, 2018
Admins: Jason Halladay

You & This Route


2 Opinions

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Description

From the intermediate anchors continues up through the roof.

70m rope is not enough to lower, need to use 80m rope, or re-thread at the intermediate anchors.

Protection

bolts + 2-bolt anchors.

Photos

Colin Brochard
Austin
 
Colin Brochard   Austin
 
This route is the Sickness!!!! I used long slings in the tufa forest first pitch and a light 80m rope. Tried this thing maybe 5-6 times over 3 days back in May.. came very close to the redpoint, but no dice.

BETA SPRAY!!!!! Cruise up the 6b tufa forest to the first anchors. Gather yourself...try not to get pumped while you do a balancy 6b+ish sequence up a tufa. Shake out. grab the RAD doorknob hold in the roof then fire through awesome gymnastic movement on bomber pockets winding up right and then back left through the overhang. Cop a quick shake on a crazy 'thread' hold at the lip before busting a few more burly moves up and over to a big hole on the headwall where you can cop a no hands kneebar. Wipe the sweat off, gather your gut busted and pumped self and then do 10m more of 6bish pocket pulling to the anchors. 5-star!!!! Jan 16, 2018
Lena chita
OH
  5.12b
Lena chita   OH
  5.12b
Yes, those few burly moves to the hole spit me out! Wish I had more time to try it! But with our 70m rope, and the crag being busy, seemed like a waste of time to wait for my turn, when I could be climbing other routes. Jan 16, 2018