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RIP The Rattler

5.12-, TR, 50 ft (15 m),  Avg: 2.7 from 3 votes
FA: Ezra Boden
Washington > South-W & Tacoma > Columbia Gorge > Wankers Columns

Description

Creative thinking and spacial awareness are necessary to reach the top. Thin edges and a lot of Newton's Third Law of Motion going on here.

Location

South end of the crag. Look for the large orange section where the Rattler column recently fell.

Protection

Two bolts up top.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Greggers
[Hide Photo] Greggers
Criss cross apple sauce. The middle lets up for a couple moves.
[Hide Photo] Criss cross apple sauce. The middle lets up for a couple moves.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Evan Larsell
White Salmon
[Hide Comment] Has anyone sent this on gear yet? Nov 3, 2018
Evan Larsell
White Salmon
[Hide Comment] I'm thinking of trying to lead it on gear. Would you have any qualms about me slapping some bolts in so it's safer for others to lead if it seems too sketchy? Nov 25, 2018
[Hide Comment] Hi Evan and Ezra,

I think this route will go on gear without the need for lead bolts. As it currently stands Wankers is an wonderfully clean crag, the only bolts around are at the top of the rim. I've climbed this route a number of times over the last three years, and I'm confident that it'll go on gear safely. I'll be back in the gorge next week, and I would love to go do this route on gear with you guys! Dec 16, 2018
Evan Larsell
White Salmon
[Hide Comment] Hi Sam. Thanks for your input and I wish I saw your comment before but i haven't checked back in since Ezra's response. I hear what you're saying and I had no intention of turning it into a sport route, but upon further inspection I decided to put in two bolts down low a couple months ago. Without them it's a solo to the first placement a third of the way up the route, with the exception of a brittle horizontal crack awkwardly too far to the left. I finally got a belayer up there and sent the route today. Even with the two bolts it's still a pretty bold trad route with some fiddly placements from awkward positions for the rest of the climb. I did not intend to set any kind of precedent for placing bolts at this crag and would urge others from doing so if gear placements are available, which it seems most everywhere they are. This is one of the better routes at the crag and without a safe start I just didn't see it ever getting climbed other than on top rope. It's still no walk in the park. Bring some RPs and give it a go. Mar 17, 2019