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Routes in First Waterfall Area

Bats-n-Bees T A2
Bennet A Lybarger Route T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Common Wealth T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Fiddler, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b X
Lock and Key T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Quehoe's Tower T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Rats-n-Bats T,TR 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Rats-n-Bees T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Seams Right T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b A3+ R
Waterfall Left T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Waterfall Right TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
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Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Dan Briley, George Smith
Page Views: 32 total · 4/month
Shared By: DesertDan on Jan 2, 2018
Admins: Justin Johnsen

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Start on the 5.10 boulder problem dyke, or step up from the side, onto the fin of rock that juts out from the right side of the First Waterfall. Clip a bolt, stand up past the second bolt (maybe a long reach for shorter folk) and the crux. Mantel up the next section to a hidden bolt, up face moves protected by small TCUs, then angle left past a bulge to easier climbing with no gear and the two bolt belay or summit the tower and belay with adequate but manky gear. Descend by rapping from the bolts or hike off/down climb to the south.


On the small tower right of the First Waterfall.


Three bolts, cams- TCUs to 2".



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