Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: D Turner and J Laing
Page Views: 161 total · 14/month
Shared By: Badana Banantula on Dec 30, 2017
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


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Description

Caution: This route is brand new and still needs a bit of cleaning. Watch for loose rock and be extremely careful with the 3'x2' block pasted on the wall about 3/4 of the way up. The block seems solid, and used to have another 1200lb block sitting on it that we trundled, but it's still hollow and could kill someone if it came off. We'll either pry it off later or reinforce it with epoxy.

Luna gets its first 12a! By far the proudest line in the park with a wide array of technical, pumpy, and thought provoking climbing on slightly overhanging rock. Consistently challenging from bottom to top.

Strenuous climbing up a thin seam past three bolts using some pockets, but mostly finger stacks and lie backs, to the top of a column of rock (20', hard 5.10/11-); then ascend the large scoop/ramp to the first fixed draw, where the first crux begins, work up into the wide flaring crack by stemming to clip the second fixed draw and use the chock stone (or a fist jam when the chock finally pops out) to pull through the lower crux (20', hard 5.11, very technical crack climbing); then stem your way up as far as possible using side pulls on the left side of the 3 foot wide crack to the large, 3'x2' pasted on block (25', 5.10, use caution with the block); take a good rest at the block and prepare to fire the slightly overhanging pocket pulling upper crux to the chains (20', 5.12a).

Depending on where you commit to the face on the upper section, the grade will vary. The higher you stem and the further right you go on the face, the easier.

Location

Left side of Full Moon Wall right in front of the apartment sized boulder under the outhouse. The only route in the park with fixed draws.

Protection

Two fixed draws protect the lower crux, requires 9 additional draws + 2 draws for the top. Has lowering biners on chains.

Photos

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