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Champagne Sherbert

WI4, Trad, Ice, 200 ft (61 m),  Avg: 3.6 from 65 votes
FA: Pat Callis, Steve Jackson, Terry Kennedy; 1975
Montana > Southwest Region > Hyalite Canyon > Flanders
Warning Access Issue: Potential road closures in winter. DetailsDrop down

Description

An aesthetic and solid climb for the grade. Lower angle ice leads to a 90 degree turn into a crux pillar with stemming and backstepping options on rock followed by easy bulges to the top.

Location

Enter Flanders by the most obvious route (logging roads). Follow these roads to a large clearing on your left with a stream at the bottom. You should be able to see the top of champagne sherbert on the east (left) wall of Flanders from here (although it may not be recognizable). The road/trail will narrow and get much more bushy if you go too far beyond this point. Cross the meadow and stream following the path of least resistance. There appears to be a trail that gets some degree of maintenance but it's not very obvious in deep snow. If you can identify it you'll see it angling forward and left relative to the logging road, makes something like a 60 degree angle with the road. Will wind its way through the woods straight to the champagne sherbert drainage near the base of the route.

Protection

Screws. Double ropes and slings to rap the route from trees. 

We needed flotation for the approach and belay stance, and used skis to good effect. Lately access seems to have gotten easier though so if you don't have flotation don't be deterred necessarily, particularly before the Jan 1st road closure when snow totals are lower and traffic is higher. Just be aware if you do have skis that the terrain is very amenable to it (not too bushy or steep).

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Mark Genito on Champagne Sherbert, 3-11-2018.  Photo: Heidi Genito
[Hide Photo] Mark Genito on Champagne Sherbert, 3-11-2018. Photo: Heidi Genito
A good view of the lower section with the rock stemming in thinner conditions, as well as the crux pillar (longer than it looks!), and some of the lower angle runnel climbing further up.
[Hide Photo] A good view of the lower section with the rock stemming in thinner conditions, as well as the crux pillar (longer than it looks!), and some of the lower angle runnel climbing further up.
Rapping the beautiful WI2+ runnel above the crux pillar. Absolutely dreamy.
[Hide Photo] Rapping the beautiful WI2+ runnel above the crux pillar. Absolutely dreamy.
Champaign sherbert from base of the climb. Dec 30th, 2017.
[Hide Photo] Champaign sherbert from base of the climb. Dec 30th, 2017.
Great conditions! Jan. 2025
[Hide Photo] Great conditions! Jan. 2025
Looking up from the base.
[Hide Photo] Looking up from the base.
Champagne Sherbert on 01/07/2023 Great conditions!
[Hide Photo] Champagne Sherbert on 01/07/2023 Great conditions!
Todd leading Champagne Sherbert in some sporty conditions, more fun then when fat IMO
[Hide Photo] Todd leading Champagne Sherbert in some sporty conditions, more fun then when fat IMO

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Brad Burns
Story, WY
  WI4
[Hide Comment] One of the best routes that I have done in Hyalite! Fantastic route! Fun lower angle ice down low with rock stemming leads to a no hands rest before the steep pillar. Throw in a screw and punch it to the lip! If the ice is fat, apparently you can stem to the rock out left. We climbed it in earlyish conditions and the ice out left by the rock was unfavorable, so we stayed on the face of the crux pillar for some pumpy fun. Pull the lip and enjoy a beautiful WI2 flow up a rock runnel over a bulge or two to the finish. Absolutley classic!
There is a few tree anchors to choose from. On the right after the bulge pull above the WI2 slab, there are two twin trees with tat and rap gear. Out left on the other side of the flow there is another tree with tat. From either of these trees, rap with two 60m cords to get to the base. Alternatively, continue up another 30ft of ice over another bulge to a high anchor on a big tree. Although we didn't use that anchor, it seems like you could reasonably rappel from there with TWO 70m ropes. 2x 60m ropes WILL NOT GET YOU DOWN FROM THE HIGH ANCHOR.
Go climb this thing! Nov 21, 2020
Robert Meshew
Bozeman, MT
 
[Hide Comment] 60M doubles will just touch down from the high anchor which is a larger tree with slings and rap ring where the ice terminates. Dec 22, 2021
Sean M
Victor, MT
  WI4
[Hide Comment] Agreed that 2 60 M ropes will get you down fine from the high anchor. Did that just a couple weeks ago. As always, knot your ends and pay attention. Jan 2, 2022
Nick Sweeney
Spokane, WA
 
[Hide Comment] Two 60 meter ropes will work to get you down, but it requires your belayer to stand in the line of fire as you climb the last few meters. Best to use the lower anchor if you're on 60s. Jan 4, 2022
Mitchell McAuslan
Spokane, WA
  WI4
[Hide Comment] Great climb, very aesthetic and the pillar climbs well. Can be a bit of a slog on the upper section after a good snow. Be careful of some strong rope drag. Jan 6, 2025