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Castle Rock II

5.9, Trad, 100 ft (30 m), 2 pitches, Grade II,  Avg: 2 from 3 votes
FA: Cam Burns and Bryan Gall 1998
Colorado > Grand Junction… > Rabbit Valley

Description

P1. Scramble up the slabs on the SW side of the formation to the base of a headwall of sorts right of the obvious crack. Climb past a shallow piton hole to the bedding seam, and traverse left to the main crack. You'll find graffiti and possibly broken beer bottles from the OHVers, so don't be scared. Grunt up the crack for 25 feet or so, and belay from a big horn on a huge ledge.

P2. From the belay, traverse left around the summit block to the opposite side, and scramble to the top. We soloed this, as the climbing isn't hard and there is little to no pro.

Downclimb off the summit, and rap off a pin and loose bolt skier's right of the summit.

Location

This is the second castle rock, a little over 3 miles from the highway. Park at the base of the route.

Protection

Singles BD #0.5-4 with an extra #0.75 or #1 for the bedding seam and a single rope.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Castle Rock as seen on the drive in.
[Hide Photo] Castle Rock as seen on the drive in.
The route.
[Hide Photo] The route.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Jason Brown
Carbondale, CO
[Hide Comment] A 9.75! Jan 4, 2018
[Hide Comment] I vaguely remember doing a route just like this back in the mid-1990s..... May 5, 2018