Type: Trad, 255 ft, 4 pitches, Grade III
FA: 1986, M.Good.
Page Views: 181 total · 16/month
Shared By: pseudalpine on Dec 28, 2017
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route

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Rising from the middle left of the south face’s base is an obvious large, low-angle prow that continually steepens from class three, maybe four and then transitioning to easy fifth at a defoliating, white pocketed face (60 feet). Tolerable pro belay right of small semi-loose block.

P1: Original description refers to traversing left around corner, up ledge steps into a broken alcove, then stepping right onto ledge and traversing slightly down, across small rails, below large roof to base of good hand crack (35 feet). Belay at ledge or linkup with P2 if long runners were set decently (or section freed). P1 (direct): Instead, avoid choss and horrendous rope drag by climbing bomber pockets straight up at right side of white rotten face, past clip, cracks to good ledge at base of P2 crack (red route on Topo Overlay). Two ring belay/rap.

P2: Climb solid, slightly aslanting crack (5.6) to large ledge perch below overhangs (30 feet). Pro and small chockstone belay or linkup with P3.

P3: Use vertical crack to gain narrow horizontal ledge, traverse right through overhang (5.6) onto large slabs. Pro pockets and small cracks on broad prow to a large ledge at base of more protruding faces (70 feet). Chain anchor belay/rap.

P4: Mount face below and left of hand crack (5.5), stepping onto large blocky flake and up easier corner. Bail right on exposed traverse (Regular route) to avoid main summit. Otherwise, climb face and prow past bolt (5.6) to final roof block (60 feet). Two bolt belay/rap.

Cams, tricams, nuts and a few quickdraws. Rap route from summit to the south, eighty feet first and then two more full single line (60m) raps.