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Routes in South Face

Bewilderbeast S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Bolee Gold T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Harder Than It Used To Be S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Hooker's Haven T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
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Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Aidan Maguire
Page Views: 57 total · 5/month
Shared By: Aidan Maguire on Dec 28, 2017
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, Refuge Jared, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Spring 2007. Tr'd once to affirm viability and ascertain bolt placement. Lead on first attempt. Beautiful, clean, high friction rock that was never climbed because the route doesn't reach the ground!
Start up Beast of Burden until 3rd bolt is about head high. Traverse left on delicate moves about 10 feet (11c?). Head straight up cool moves past knobs (sling). Crux starts when leaving the huge knob and the next 10 feet or so (11d?), but remains tricky after that (11). At top a tricky very insecure move (11c?) gains the arete and then follow to the top. One can bail left to finish up Gallows Pole which is easier (but that defeats the purpose). Easy to set TR from end of first pitch of Hardings Chimney/Gallows Pole with 60m.

Location

comes out of Beast of Burden

Protection

Bolts

Photos

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