All Locations > International > Oceania > New Zealand > South Island > Canterbury > Mt. Cook > Tasman Glacier Valley
Mount Cook, Linda Glacier
Avg: 3 from 1 vote
|Type:||Trad, Ice, Snow, Alpine, 5000 ft, Grade III|
|FA:||February, 1912 - Hugh Chambers, Jack Clarke, Jim Murphy and Hugh Wright|
|Page Views:||63 total · 23/month|
|Shared By:||Jeff Hebert on Dec 25, 2017|
DescriptionWhile this is the easiest and most-traveled route on Mount Cook, it has significant objective hazard and is a relatively serious outing.
From the Plateau Hut, cross the Grand Plateau West to the Linda Glacier. The icefall here has some of the trickiest crevasse crossings and can be quite broken up by late season. Once past the major glacier travel difficulties, the glacier and route swing Southwest, skirting under a very large hanging glacier and through its debris field.
The route then steepens a bit before cutting Southeast to a saddle on Zurbriggen Ridge below the summit rocks. A steep snow and ice gully with rap anchors on each side leads up to the summit rocks and a series of short rock pitches that may have more or less snow and ice on them, depending on the season.
Above the summit rocks is a bit more steep, exposed snow which leads either directly to the summit or back Northwest to the North ridge if a bergschrund is in the way.