Type: Trad, Ice, Snow, Alpine, 5000 ft, Grade III
FA: February, 1912 - Hugh Chambers, Jack Clarke, Jim Murphy and Hugh Wright
Page Views: 223 total · 19/month
Shared By: Jeff Hebert on Dec 25, 2017
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Description

While this is the easiest and most-traveled route on Mount Cook, it has significant objective hazard and is a relatively serious outing.

From the Plateau Hut, cross the Grand Plateau West to the Linda Glacier. The icefall here has some of the trickiest crevasse crossings and can be quite broken up by late season. Once past the major glacier travel difficulties, the glacier and route swing Southwest, skirting under a very large hanging glacier and through its debris field.

The route then steepens a bit before cutting Southeast to a saddle on Zurbriggen Ridge below the summit rocks. A steep snow and ice gully with rap anchors on each side leads up to the summit rocks and a series of short rock pitches that may have more or less snow and ice on them, depending on the season.

Above the summit rocks is a bit more steep, exposed snow which leads either directly to the summit or back Northwest to the North ridge if a bergschrund is in the way.

Protection

Pickets, some ice screws, a small rock rack, one 60-70m rope, two tools/axes.

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