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Routes in Waco Wall

Fricken Chicken S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Let It Bleed S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rhinestone Cowboy S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
This Ain't My First Rodeo S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
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Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Ben Chapman, Jeffrey Thomas, Sandy Champagne, & Pam Neal
Page Views: 79 total · 9/month
Shared By: Benjamin Chapman on Dec 24, 2017
Admins: jt512, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Wow! Those xenoliths are sharp!! "Let It Bleed" will draw blood, if you're not careful.
This route and the others on the Waco Wall are vastly different then the other routes at Texas Canyon. Nowhere else at Texas Canyon do you find tiny inclusions and xenoliths this solid, "sticky," and sharp. Very reminiscent of gritstone that way. Use the incut holds left of the 1st bolt to get established on the wall and work up the sloping footholds to a right slanting sidepull and a hard pull to a three-finger pocket. Work through the pocket and stand in the pocket to clip the 3rd bolt. Continue up the face on amazingly sharp and solid xenoliths to the anchor. You'll definitely feel the burn in your fingertips on "Let It Bleed."

Location

Ten feet left of "Rhinestone Cowboy."

Protection

3 bolts & chain anchor, shared with "Rhinestone Cowboy."

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